Venison goulash with spätzle

When the hunting season is under way in autumn, venison goulash appears on the menu of many inns in the Black Forest, and with good reason. Wild venison has a deep, slightly gamey flavour, and it is lean yet tender when braised slowly. With red wine, game stock, juniper and bay it turns into a dark, glossy sauce that goes perfectly with fresh spätzle. This is a Sunday dinner that makes an afternoon in the kitchen worthwhile.

You can get diced venison from a good butcher, a local game dealer or frozen from the supermarket. Shoulder is best, because its bit of connective tissue turns it succulent over a long braise. Thaw frozen meat overnight in the fridge and pat it very dry. Browning is the step that matters most. Do it in small batches so the meat really colours, then deglaze the pan several times with red wine. That is where the depth of the sauce comes from.

Juniper, allspice and bay are the classic spices for game. Right at the end you stir in a few lingonberries and a small piece of dark chocolate. You will not taste either, but the sauce gets rounder and less sharp. A splash of gin is a nice extra if you want more juniper.

Making spätzle is easier than it looks. Beat the batter hard until it bubbles, then press it through a spätzle press or scrape it off a board into boiling water. Serve the goulash with a spoonful of lingonberries and a glass of Lemberger. It tastes even better reheated the next day, so you can easily cook it ahead.