Radicchio risotto

When the crates of red radicchio turn up at the market in late autumn, people in the Veneto start making risotto. Around Treviso and Verona this bitter leaf is not just eaten raw, it is cooked too, and it is at its best in a risotto. The leaves collapse in the pan, soften and, together with the red wine, turn the rice a soft pink. The bitterness mellows without disappearing completely. That is the whole appeal, because it stops a risotto full of butter and cheese from feeling heavy and one-note.

A creamy risotto needs no cream, just patience and hot stock. The rice is toasted in oil first, then the wine goes in, and after that the stock, one ladle at a time. Stirring rubs the starch off the grains and thickens the liquid. Right at the end you beat in cold butter and cheese. Italians call this the mantecatura, and it is the moment the risotto turns glossy and loose. After that it should not boil again.

Taleggio is a soft cheese from Lombardy with a mild, nutty, savoury flavour. Some of it melts into the risotto and the rest goes on top in cubes, slowly melting over the hot rice. Toasted walnuts add a bit of crunch and go well with radicchio. If you cannot find Taleggio, mild Gorgonzola or a young Fontina will do.

Risotto is best straight from the pan, so get everyone to the table before you take it off the heat. A glass of young Valpolicella is perfect, ideally from the bottle you cooked with. Any leftovers can be rolled into small balls the next day and fried until crisp.