Lemongrass tofu

In Saigon, đậu hũ xả ớt, tofu with lemongrass and chilli, sits on the counter of countless small canteens. It is a lunchtime dish eaten with rice, quick and cheap, and so well seasoned that a bowl of rice is all you need with it. The tofu is fried until golden and then tossed in a fragrant mix of lemongrass, garlic, shallot and chilli. A little sugar and soy sauce cook down to a thin, glossy glaze that is sweet, salty and hot all at once.

To get the tofu properly crisp, press it first. Wrap it in a tea towel and weigh it down with a heavy pan so it loses plenty of water. Then toss the cubes in a little cornflour mixed with turmeric. That gives a fine crust and the typical golden colour. In the pan the main thing is patience. Leave the cubes where they are until they come away from the base, and only then turn them.

Lemongrass is best pounded in a mortar. It breaks up the fibres, and the whole kitchen smells of it straight away. You can buy fresh lemongrass at Asian grocers and in many supermarkets. Use only the pale, juicy lower part. Save the tough green tops for tea or a broth.

For lunch, serve the tofu with jasmine rice, cool slices of cucumber, lime and fresh coriander, with a big glass of iced jasmine tea. Leftovers are good cold too, for instance the next day in a rice noodle bowl with salad and herbs.