Weeknight kimchi stew

I cook kimchi-jjigae whenever the kimchi in the fridge has got so sour that I no longer want to eat it on its own. That is exactly when it works best in this Korean stew. You fry the kimchi with garlic and chilli in sesame oil, add water, and after about a quarter of an hour you have a rich, sour and spicy broth that would otherwise take hours.

In Korea this is everyday food that goes on the table without much prep. The ripe kimchi brings the flavour, so you do not need a fancy stock or a long shopping list. The tofu softens the heat a little and soaks up the broth. A bowl of rice goes alongside, and you take a bit after each spoonful of stew.

Use kimchi that already smells properly sour. Fresh, crunchy kimchi gives a rather thin broth. The classic version has pork belly in it, but on weeknights I usually make it with just tofu because it is quicker.

Season with soy sauce at the end and only add sugar if the kimchi is very sour. Do not let the stew boil for too long, and bring it to the table while it is still bubbling in the bowl.